Tracy’s Letters from France: Versailles
Dear Mamma,
Picture This: sitting on the banks of a remote reflecting pond, parking in the shade of well tended forests, after biking along sun-dappled paths cris-crossing the vast grounds of Versailles. Plus being led by a gorgeous Italian tour guide named Claudio, and riding along with 8 other pleasant-enough companions, and eating a hand selected meat, cheese, baguette lunches followed by fruit and tarts from the large, outdoor market!
That was quite a day!
Background: We booked the tour a few months ago at the suggestion a friend who said, “Biking in Versailles is fabulous!” We took the metro early to the Montpernasse TGV rail station (7:45am) where we met our tour guide, Claudio, who was dressed in a thin, white, linen, long-sleeve shirt and narrow black trousers. He was clean shaven (rare in France and the U.S.) with short dark hair, and cool glasses.
Our fellow travellers: a mom, dad and their 2 high school daughters from Florida, a 30-something couple from South Africa (she’s an MD; he’s a lawyer), a retired couple from Nebraska after a career around the world with the Air Force and us!
Claudio, who’s from Sorrento on the Italian coast, met his wife after college in Scotland, where they were taking advanced English classes! She’s from France, so they decided to live in Paris where they have more opportunities for their careers than in Sorrento and it great for their 2 young children.
Earlier that day we had taken the speedy, 20-minute train to Versailles. (And except for the old train into Paris from Station-Charles de Gaulle, we are impressed with the cleanliness of the Paris’ subway stations, their cars, and the rail trains.)
In Versailles, Claudio invited us to introduce ourselves, then directed us to our bikes. They were cruisers with 3 or 6 speeds, but we never went very fast.
They each had baskets in front for our purses and other gear. We rode single file through the streets of this Center of Influence and saw that Versailles is a beautiful city with life for its people, well beyond the palace.
Of course, the palace and grounds are truly amazing places. Claudio made it all come alive! He was the most extraordinary storyteller weaving history, legend, drama, tragedy, politics, ego, greed, control, and romance in every room! He’d point to a painting, or a painted ceiling or the Hall of Mirrors or a bedroom and after a short story about it’s importance, he’d say, “Now remember this painting, because this story takes a turn you won’t expect!” Like school children with a captivating teacher, we couldn’t wait to hear the rest of the story!
He shared much about the political climate of the times. And he enlightened us about why and how the French Revolution started. (How did I miss so much about world history?) He also brought our views current with references to modern day politics, up to and including leader Macron.
Back to the Monarchy.
I would be a very grouchy queen. These young girls were pulled away from their families in Spain, (for Louis XIV), Poland (for Louis XV), and Austria (Marie Antoinette at 14 for Louis XVI.) Why have arranged marriages with girls from other countries? Because, for example, it was a smart alliance for Austria to be connected to the powerful king and country of France. Poor Marie Antoinette couldn’t bring a single family member with her or even her dog.
Anyway, the kings had it made. And the queens? They just popped out babies … with an audience, no less! True. Rows of people watched from behind the “golden gate” (literally a gold gate) at the end of the queen’s bed to make sure the infant who emerged was a royal baby!
One exhausted queen had 10 babies in 10 years and finally proclaimed, “I’m done!” So what did her husband, the king do? Had mistresses. Many in fact!
Yes, I would have been a very mad queen or would have gone mad!
We toured 1 of the 34 gardens! Yes, 34! (They have 45 gardeners on staff.) They are trying to keep the gardens looking lush and colourful but to no avail. France, like all of Europe is parched. In fact, Versailles only runs the gorgeous, extravagant fountains on Saturdays & Sundays to save precious water. (In Paris, no fountains are in use. It’s very sad and worrisome.)
After the palace and garden tour, we rode our bikes to the lively, open air market to select our picnic lunch. All the fruits, veggies, nuts outside under tents and inside pate, lentil salads, cheeses, and baguettes from the corner boulangerie were ours to choose.
Then we rode through the woods and picnicked by one of the lakes. Plenty of photo opps, more biking, more fascinating stories and finally back to the train station to drop off our bikes and thank Claudio for the BEST day!
Exhausted and very hot, we got back to Paris at 6pm. Supper was leftovers from lunch + a refreshing bottle of rosé from Chateauneuf du Pope.
What a day!
Sending lots of love,
— Tra, Henry and Margaret
Henry E. Hooper 