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Tracy’s Letters from France: Paris

Good morning, Dear Ones,

I’m writing in the early morning (5am) while Henry and Margaret sleep soundly … before they awake and we move forward in our full day ahead!

It is very hot here again today. Yesterday the temperature was 97. The first two days were in the low 90’s with a slight breeze. Of course, we walked everywhere and our paths found the shady side of the streets.

We had a delicious breakfast of omelettes, croissants and coffee. All so good here. Then we spent three hours at the Picasso Museum. Oh my God. Fantastic!  

The museum is a magnificent building tucked in a quiet neighborhood with room after room of his art, movies of him working. There is a fascinating video narrated by his daughter, Maya, explaining his complicated choices with women, various children, the places he lived, and how, since his death, she has spent the rest of her life preserving his art and legacy. 

The museum beautifully showed his artistic evolution over the years, his playfulness and his darker side. In every photo or video he has a brush in one hand and a lit cigarette in the other. He lived until age 92! Go figure. We all loved visiting and taking our time at this museum.

We took a city bus tour with bad audio but at least we saw the key spots. Magnificent buildings. I’ll never get over how enormous The Louvre is or how beautiful is the Musee D’Orsay. (Years ago, our friend from McDonogh, John Hedeman, said he went to the Louvre once a week for three years and still didn’t see most of the art and treasures in its many halls!)

Like Spain and Italy, the nights come alive after 8 pm. We had a delicious dinner at 8:30 the first night, and, when we left at 10-ish, people were just being seated! The restaurant was steps away from our AirBnb with maybe 20 tables. Loved it.

Our flat is in a fabulous location in the Marais District, in a very cool neighborhood with comfy beds and Air Conditioning. With this day-time heat, that is key!

It’s fun to see Paris through Margaret’s first-time eyes. She’s said several times, “I can’t believe I’m here!” She’s a huge help with Google maps on her phone to guide us in the best direction and also order tickets online to museums, a boat tour (fun) and other activities.

I’d forgotten how beautiful the small shops are. Sparse and artfully designed windows and interiors. Florals are big this season.

The women look amazing: fit, stylish and aloof! Dad is impressed not with how fabulous the young women look (who can’t look good at 20-something?). He’s taken with how beautiful the “moms” look: in great shape and dressed in such stylish ways. The three of us are loving the Paris people watching.

Yesterday, despite the temperature, we loved The Musee D’Orsay and L’Orangerie. Monet’s Water Lilies, yes, but also so many other masterpieces by artists we love.

I’ve also been watching parents and their children interact, which has mostly been tender and dear, as they talk about the paintings and enjoy each other. I’m reflecting back on raising you girls and the many wonderful and fun things we did together as a family … Dad and I also feel blessed to be having this fun with Margaret at this stage of each of our lives! I’m also immensely thankful that Daddy and I have the energy, great health and means to travel. It takes a lot of stamina! And we appreciate every minute.

Today, we take the train to Avignon for six days exploring Provence. (El, I’ll be thinking of you and me and our sweet mother-daughter time in San Remy.)

All’s well.

Sending lots of love to each of you,
– Tracy (Mom)